London is often called to be the baby of the four major fashion capitals. While it’s tiny in terms of size, it’s massive in its influence. It may not have the glamour of Paris and the luxury of Milan or the cost associated with New York, but what is what makes this British capital so unique is its reputation as the epicenter of unique, bold and bold ideas.
The late Lady Vivienne Westwood was the pioneer of these views. Her anger and rebellion as well as her activism was a perfect example of what makes events like London Fashion Week so special. Then came pioneers such as Lee Alexander McQueen with his Spring/Summer 1999 collection, which used robots to spray paint Shalom Harlow’s dress in black, while also showing that LFW is the leading actor.
In addition to London’s fashion-forward history in it is also known for its high fashion heritage. U.K. is also known for its role in establishing the current fashion stars of streetwear. Think Palace’s rise up to the top, working with Gucci or new releases like Corteiz and its hold on the current generation of young people by generating viral videos such as that of the Bolo Exchange. These names have not just set the standard for how Brits wear their clothes, they have also also influenced the world by their ingenuity and wit.
It’s only one week ahead of 2023. The U.K. is already gearing up for major events in our country as well as further afield. With big names taking over events of the institution and others dominating on a global scale and global Houses acknowledging the significance in London Fashion Week and British streetwear entering its new era of dominance over culture, Hypebeast details the occasions we’re looking forward to from the vibrant British fashion industry this year.
Martine Rose at Pitti Uomo 103
We’ve been told the fact that London designer Martine Rose is “probably the most coveted fashion designer of all time” for a moment and we’re pretty sure Rose is in bloom again in Florence during this season’s Pitti Uomo 103. In the final day of the menswear festival, Rose presents her upcoming collection at the event for institutions and is sure to distinguish her from her fellow designers this season.
This is because Pitti Uomo is not an event that is a “Fashion Week” instead it’s an event for trade that includes presentations. The focus is on stylists and buyers (as as opposed to press or influential people), Pitti acts as an opportunity for famous brand names as well as newcomers to place their work in a position away from the typical calendar. For Rose who is leaving her London base signifies that her home-grown brand is now a more global arena.
The label she created is well-known and loved, Pitti should offer the designer the chance to see her work under a different setting, and also reflect her subversive stances back on the norms that define Pitti as well as its fashion-conscious cult.
In her role as Pitti Uomo 103’s Guest Designer, Rose is likely to present her most impressive collection to this point. The loggia is set in the 16th century The show may show her gorgeous fashion and love of collaborations blend with the luxurious backdrops of Florence and Rome, or it could flip Pitti to the side by incorporating a gritty Londoner’s style.
Daniel Lee for Burberry
Burberry’s history is a fascinating, British history. It was founded around 1856, in 1856 by Thomas Burberry as a brand created to shield Brits from the harsh climate of the Isles The House expanded into areas of culture, culture on terraces, military and luxury. However, its reputation was marred in the late 2000s by the British media, who called it “chavtastic” after events like Eastenders soap star Danniella Westbrook’s complete Nova Check ensemble.
Then we move to the year 2009 and Christopher Bailey at the reigns and Burberry was on the right track. Nova Checks went hand-in-hand with the ’90s, feminine womenswear and UK streetwear-inspired tailoring and many other things that provided Riccardo Tisci as his successor the model for success.
But according to Vogue states, “Tisci’s Burberry failed to achieve lift-off in the same way that the owned by LVMH Givenchy did when he was the head of the brand. The timing was difficult to achieve, but Tisci was also playing the game against his own type.” Yes that he was fighting COVID-19 and Brexit however, unwelcome additions such as the “TB” logo didn’t reach the same people like the brand was hoping for.
This is where former Bottega Veneta chief Daniel Lee comes in. Lee’s in-depth knowledge of breathing new life into the House is evident and his impact in the world of Bottega Veneta has been indelible. The fashion industry now hopes that Lee will bring the same revival effect to Burberry.
His first show for the House will be held at London Fashion Week, and everyone is watching the show to impress. We envision a style language rooted in the codes of historical times colors, colors and patterns inspired by the past by, yet cuts and modern undertones elevate Burberry back to its formal, sophisticated past, and bolstered with well documented subcultural undertones for a brand revival that we will be remembered.
Maximilian Davis for Ferragamo
Manchester born, London College of Fashion alumni Maximilian Davis was brought in to get sexy at for the brand of Salvatore Ferragamo. Today, he is called Ferragamo, Davis’ debut was awaited with excitement: would he be able to do it?
Indeed, he did. Hypebeast said that the fashion show “closed with a bang Milan Fashion Week with a house rebranding that ticked all the boxes” it was almost as if the young designer had created an entire brand completely from the ground up.
It was the result of a line that embodied Davis’s vision straight through and through. A dazzling organza was juxtaposed with elegant fabrics and billowing tailoring to give a feeling of comfort and a modern look, and all without fussing about any aspect. This will serve as a springboard to see the next thing Davis will do next.
His style is elegant and simple; however, don’t think it’s boring. The contrast between hot leather pants for men, the technical clothing made of white nylon, a nod at his British design heritage, and the ability to effortlessly balance masculine and feminine elements within one outfit, Davis’ Ferragamo is far from being outdated.
When he was asked about his appointment for 2022, he stated, “Ferragamo represents a dedication to timeless elegance and style which I find extremely motivating. I’m excited to articulate my vision, enriched by the standards of Italian workmanship, quality, and creativity.”
It’s this aspect that has everyone excited about the second album which is sure to continue to teach an old dog new tricks.
Moncler Genius for LFW
Remo Ruffini’s Moncler Genius does exactly what it claims on the Tin. From Craig Green’s stunning architectural designs to Palm Angels’ glitzy winter warmers, the innovative output has seen designers both small and big take the standard Moncler and add an innovative twist.
The moment is now, Moncler Genius is heading to London Fashion Week. Although the collaboration designers are still revealed, the show is bound to be an absolute success. To celebrate its 70th anniversary, Moncler took over Milan with thousands of models and viewers taking part in the celebration and other events have seen the specialists in outerwear present digitally-produced presentations that were shown across the globe at the same time.
London Fashion Week has always been an opportunity for emerging designers to establish themselves with a focus on innovation. Houses however tend to go for extravagant shows – when combined, it could be a memorable event for Moncler Genius this season.
New Designers in London Fashion Week
Think about the phrase “time for young designers to shine.” London Fashion Week is the ideal venue for the emergence of new talents, and if the Spring/Summer 2023 is an indication, we may be in for more fashion-forward fashion week dominance by the time Fall/Winter 2023 rolls around.
From Chopova Lowena’s gritty debut to S.S.DALEY’s beautiful grandeur, Chet Lo’s standing ovation-inducing runway, and NOKI’s intimate party, SS23 brought smaller names to the forefront of every fashionista’s thoughts. These designers, like BMUET(TE), 16Arlington, FEBEN, Edward Crutchley, HARRI and many more were the focus of conversation as the glitterati moved from one venue to the next. And it’s almost a given that the same thing will happen for FW23.
When you consider what the newcomers of last season were competing against the likes of Raf Simons Burberry, Christopher Kane, JW Anderson – the presence of these greats didn’t dampen the emergence of brightness. Instead, we saw an LFW with two halves that worked together to showcase the best of British fashion. FW23 should continue to be a champion for the next generation of LFW to continue to flourish like it did for many years before its demise in the aftermath of and during the pandemic.
Punk’s Legacy
While the majority of this describes the key players and shakers who will enthrall in the world of fashion with a new level of creativity but there’s a trend that could be the king of the hill in 2023. It’s punk.
In the wake of the demise of the late Dame Vivienne Westwood last December it will be the artists who she inspired to carry on her legacy this year. Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood is certain to perform (as it has always done) however, the such as Daniel W. Fletcher, Chopova Lowena, Pronounce, and possibly some Fashion East students, all who have already shared their visions of punk, could be the ones to lead this year. Especially since as the Queen of Punk has left us.
There’s also an Gen-Z movement that is promoting the punk movement. Its roots are in DIY and upcycling, people today with social media experts have developed “Thrift-Flip”-toks that have generated thousands of views on sewing tutorials they’ve seen their plans come to fruition by the opening of new stores (such as the Waste Store in London) catering to the punk revivalists. In light of this, and lots of political uncertainty in this year’s political climate, it’s possible that 2023 could be the year that punk comes out in its most authentic form for a long time.
IYKYK Streetwear is Back! IYKYK Streetwear
Clints, Corteiz, A1 Denim, Soho Yacht Club, AELIZA, HYO-ISAK… The list is endless. These names were the mainstays of last year’s U.K. streetwear scene; many of which were able to increase their stature through their uncompromising approach to fashion. Certain were brand new to the scene, while others took the year to refine their skills, but they each one reflected the wants and aspirations of the society and the community that runs Great British trends.
If you felt that 2022 would be the year the beginning of every streetwear brand whether for good or better – then 2023 is the year when these brands will continue to gain over the general customer with their fervent followings each label has built from beginning to end.
Why? It’s because U.K. streetwear brands are embracing the enthusiasm of the younger generation like never before. Ingenious marketing strategies, viral marketing campaigns, and unique beliefs have helped to build large-scale communities that are closely connected to the brand’s image. Labels such as Corteiz have their logos adorning the shoulders of thousands of people in London and all over the world. The world’s most famous Anglophile, Drake, has been featured in the magazine the label, it’s obvious U.K. streetwear is taking over the world.
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